By Mila Rahmat
It’s not just a rumor; Koreans really do know how to keep off the years. Just search the web for Korean celebrities and prepare to marvel at their ages. After living in Korea for a year, I can testify to the difference. Though Americans tend to underestimate my age, Koreans usually added about five years! When one first grader added over twenty years to my age, I had to do something.
I quickly found that Korean Skin Care takes dedication and some money. But with 7 to 12 steps and amazing products, how can it not work? Now, I know it already seems like too much. I mean, 7+ steps? But that’s why this article is for you. By the end of this page you’ll know what each step is, why it helps your skin, and most importantly, short-cuts to save time and money.
The basic concept of Korea Skin Care (KSC) routine is the order in which you apply products. Order does matter because it affects how well your skin absorbs and benefits from each product. Essentially, watery products come first and transition to the thickest products. So here is a typical 12-step regimen in order from first to last:
(Note: skip to the end of the article for a simplified version)
Cleansers
Step 1. Oil cleanser
If you have oily skin, like I do, you’re probably thinking, NO! But don’t skip this step because it’s the best way to remove makeup. Gently massage the oil cleanser into your face and neck, then rinse with warm water. Your makeup will be gone.
Step 2. Water-based cleanser
Chase the oil cleanser with a water-based formula. Foam cleansers are especially nice. They remove other residue or excess oils. And of course, pat-dry, don’t rub. In KSC, it’s important to pat your face gently, with minimal pressure. Harsh rubbing and scrubbing accelarates aging.
Prepare your Skin
Step 3. Exfoliator
I recommend exfoliation as a daily part of your skin care routine, but it certainly saves time and money to skip this step. However, exfoliating at least three times a week will result in better skin texture and overall skin health. Removing dead skin, allows the next steps to work better.
Step 4. Toner
Toner balances pH, evens texture, and removes dead skin cells. Plus, it prepares your skin for the next products by getting the skin ready to absorb them.
Nurture
Step 5. Essence
Korean essence serves as a transition between toner and serum. It helps unleash the full power of serum. It can also have special functions such as pore shrinking or skin whitening. Lightly sweep essence over your face, avoiding the eyes.
Step 6. Serum
These gifts to human-kind treat specific skin problems, so this step is highly customizable. I’ve even heard of mixing different serums to get the most benefits. For example, if you have an acne serum and an anti-aging serum, you can blend them to treat both issues. (Note: “boosters,” “ampoules,” “skins,” etc. serve the same purpose as serums and fit into this step.)
Moisturize
Step 7. Masks
Masks offer an optional step for those days when you need extra help. Masks do take 15 to 20 minutes, but if you have the time, go for it! Treat yourself to a relaxing spa moment.
Step 8. Eye Cream
Eyes are the portals to your true age. Keeping them young is crucial. Ideally, apply it twice a day. Skin around the eyes is especially fragile, so deftly dabbing is the best way to apply eye cream. Try using your pinky or ring finger, since they are weaker fingers that provide a lighter touch.
Moisturize Again
Step 9. Moisturizer
Moisturizer falls under a plethora of names: gel, emulsion, cream, lotion…whatever it is, apply it two or more times a day. Moisturizer is the soul of KSC. It's the best weapon against wrinkles and how Koreans keep their faces smooth forever.
Step 10. Sleep Mask
The last step before bed is a sleep mask (sometimes called a sleeping pack) to provide extra moisture. It essentially locks in everything you just put on.
Protect and Refresh
Step 11. Sun Protection
In the morning, you will feel amazing! But how do you protect your fresh skin from the sun? You can find SPF in most Korean makeup products. BB Cream, which is an SPF lotion with skin coverage, is an excellent way to protect yourself and look fabulous at the same time. Personally, SPF bothers me because it’s linked to cancer, but wearing long sleeves, sunglasses, hats, and carrying umbrellas are other ways to protect yourself.
Step 12. Mist
To keep skin moist and fresh throughout the day, Koreans carry mist everywhere they go. Korean women are famous for their healthy, dewy look, reinforced by mist.
Breakdown
If there was a skin care map, I just gave you a Russia-sized amount of information. So let’s break this down. I’ve simplified it into "fewer” steps:
Cleanse and Prep: cleansers, toner, and an optional exfoliator
Nurture: essences, serums, and optional masks
Moisturize: eye cream, moisturizers, optional sleep mask
Protect: sun block, prevention, optional mists
Take out all of the optional steps, and it gets easier.
Cleanser
Toner
Essence
Serum
Eye cream
Moisturizer
Sun protection (the next morning)
It’s starting to look doable, right? This makes my basic pre-bed routine. It only takes about five minutes, and I can always add optional steps if my skin needs extra help. I’ve been following this routine for almost a year and my skin has never looked better in my adult life.
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